Happy Birthday Fairtrade Gold!
13.02.12
1Fashion
Jeweller Anna Loucah looks back on a year of change and sees just how far the industry's come
As a fine jeweller and a magpie for all things sparkly, there is little I find more naturally beautiful than the warm, rich yellow of gold. Gold is a metal which has obsessed us and inspired us for centuries, and our love affair with it shows no sign of abating.
There is a certain romantic aura surrounding gold. What isn’t so romantic, however, is the knowledge that often, the process of extracting the gold from the earth can involve dangerous working conditions, child labour and environmental pollution. Globally, over 15 million artisanal and small-scale miners have little choice but to engage in such dangerous practices- it is their only option for survival. Frequently exploited by middle men, they are caught in a vicious circle of vulnerability and illegality, with many lacking the skills and resources to escape.
With this knowledge, gold has a tendency to lose its rose-tinted sheen. Yet, on Valentine’s Day 2011, an important landmark was reached in the fight to improve the lives of the world’s artisanal miners and to provide them with a fair price and a framework for sustainable development.
That landmark was the launch of the Fairtrade Fairmined gold certification. Twenty jewellers showed their commitment by becoming license holders through the Fairtrade Foundation, taking the first steps towards transparency in the gold supply chain. Now, one year on, we are celebrating the first anniversary of Fairtrade gold with 34 licensees in the UK. More are signing up steadily.
Fairtrade gold bears a special stamp next to its hallmark and there are two levels of certification.
The first is that of the dual stamp ‘Fairtrade Fairmined’. This upholds the rigorous working practices of the Fairtrade Foundation but allows the controlled and contained use of chemicals such as mercury in the gold extraction process.
The second level is that of ‘Fairtrade Fairmined Ecological gold’, where an additional premium is added to ensure no such chemicals are used in mining practice.
The UK jewellery industry has responded incredibly well to the certification scheme and has continued to prioritise the establishment of additional ethical supply chains. Many jewellers feel it is their responsibility to spread the word and pass this information on to their customers. Early Fairtrade gold advocate Harriet Kelsall is one such jeweler. She says: “As we tell customers about the Fairtrade gold option we are seeing more and more uptake. You really can trust the Fairtrade mark, it’s a way of buying that looks after our entire future"
With such growing awareness it would appear that, one year on, the greatest challenge facing FT gold is the continued rising cost of the gold itself. The necessary premium placed on Fairtarde metal can mean up to an additional 15% increase in cost. But jewellers are attempting to tackle this issue head on. “Our 2012 strategy will be to find a price framework that really works for the customer in these difficult economic times”, says Alan Frampton of Fairtrade campaign pioneers CRED Jewellery. “We are looking at creating a demand by being realistic on the price while maintaining a clear focus on design.”
Many consider the additional value of Fairtrade gold to be something that cannot be summed up in pounds sterling; the value of the knowledge that your special jewellery purchase is free from the negative association of human and environmental cost. “Working with Fairtrade gold enriches my work with an additional layer of meaning and significance,” says sculptural ethical jeweller Ute Decker. “In our globalised and anonymous world a piece jewellery in Fairtrade Ecological gold is a treasured rarity.”
Livia Firth's Fairtrade jewellery, The Oscars 2011
Although not without its challenges, the first anniversary of Fairtrade Fairmined gold is indeed a cause for celebration. Knowing our purchasing choices can have a positive impact on the lives of others, and that we are fortunate enough to be able to arm ourselves with the knowledge to make those choices wisely, is very much something to celebrate. As Fairtrade gold campaign pioneer Greg Valerio says, “these challenges are the bedrock of what makes Fairtrade such a dynamic and entrepreneurial movement. Gold is the oldest market in the world and I am confident that in 2012 we will see growth in the number of companies selling Fairtrade gold, more certified miners benefiting from the scheme and many more UK consumers asking for Fairtrade gold in their jewellery purchases.”
CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT LIVIA FIRTH'S OSCAR JEWELS, 2011
CLICK HERE TO READ GLORIOUS GOLD, ONE FAMILY MISSION TO REINVENT MINING.
