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Archive February 2012

  • The Valentino Oscar gown, from start to finish with Livia Firth.

    Livia and Colin Firth, moments before heading to the Oscars. 

    November 2011 and I found myself in a dream.  Entering the Valentino Palace where the couture pieces are still designed, cut, sown and created by an expert team of seamstresses who had been there for many years.  The rooms here are filled with skilful women wearing white aprons, sometimes donning gloves so as not to mark the delicate fabrics and exquisite embroideries that they still do by hand. This is a painstaking operation where it takes many weeks to make a single gown.  Having visited operations in Bangladesh at the other end of the fashion spectrum, producing for low cost multiple retailers where women over thirty five are considered unemployable ( is this perhaps because they are less malleable and easily intimidated?)  the first thing that struck me was that here, different ages work together; the young women learning top class tailoring skill for the older more experience women.

    Naturally this great design house had questions, particularly about the GCC’s use of eco fabrics. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at the helm of Valentino wanted to know if our criteria would still allow them to create the uber glamorous, light, magical gowns they are now famous for?  Could our ethics meet with their finally tuned aesthetics?

    Well, as soon as I saw the sketch of the dress they had in mind for me I knew it was possible.  A highly elegant, polished gown that immediately appealed to my romantic nature but with the promise of the high sheen we now know is absolutely necessary for the biggest red carpet of all.  I knew I had my Oscar gown for 2012.

    Valentino sketch for the Green Carpet Challenge Oscar gown.

    The GCC team and Valentino met in Paris to talk fabric and worked hard to find the right balance of materials that would deliver the full Valentino effect and conform to the GCC criteria. The result is a real hybrid dress, the combination of an amazing recycled PET fabric along with the Valentino’s house silk for the beautiful sheer sleeves of the gown.

    CLICK HERE FOR LIVIA'S PARIS DIARY.

    Livia Firth at Valentino's Headquaters in Rome, having her Oscar gown built around her! 

    CLICK HERE TO VIEW LIVIA'S FIRST FITTING AT VALENTINO HQ

    Back in Rome under the expert hands of Valentino’s head seamstress the corset was built.  Really we could reclassify this woman as an engineer!

    Livia Firth with Valentino's Carols De Souza, Rodeo Drive.  Photograph by Jason Olive

    CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE FINAL OSCAR FITTING

    Then to LA for the final fitting, just a few days before the Oscars.  This time I went to Valentino’s HQ in Beverly Hills.  There are always a few nerves about the Oscar dress and I did feel butterflies as I tried it on but actually this was more a feeling of excitement.  The gown is the picture of elegance that I’ve always dreamed of since I was about ten.  It’s the biggest I’ve worn to date, the ultimate Cinderella dress and I think a triumph of ethics and Valentino’s showstopping aesthetics - I hope you love it too!  

    CLICK HERE TO VIEW ALL THE IMAGES SO FAR FROM THE 2012 GREEN CARPET CHALLENGE

  • Colin and Livia Firth host with Anna Zegna and Vanity Fair an incredilble dinner at Chateau Marmont.

     

    Livia Firth with Anna Zegna

    On Wednesday night in LA Colin and I along with Anna Zegna, fourth generation of fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna hosted a dinner. Guests including Emily Blunt, John Kravinski, Mia Wasakoswa, Cameron Diaz, Kirstin Davis, Kenneth Branah, Gary Oldman, Emile Hirsch, Djimon Hounsou and Kimora Lee Simmons all sat around a long table at Chateau's Bungalow to share tales of Oxfam trips and Oscar predictions.

    Gary Oldman and Alexandra Edenborough

    Gary Oldman and his wife Alexandra Edenborough, outside the event.

    Colin Firth and Kristin Davis. 

    When Annie Lennox asked me to launch an Italian chapter of The Circle with Marie Claire Italia, Anna Zegna was immediately up for getting involved. We speak the same language on two levels! Her family's fashion brand has become a beacon of sustainability and ethical innovation, particularly focusing on traceability. She also runs the Fondazione Zegna, which works to progress fair trade and sustainability education.

    CLICK HERE FOR THE ENTIRE GALLERY OF THE DINNER.

    I was (understandably I think!) a little nervous when it was my turn to stand up and speak to the assembled guests about Oxfam and my trips. But there was a real appetite for more information about Oxfam's work worldwide. Many guests also asked about the Green Carpet Challenge and fashion was embedded into the conversation. We talked of  fashion as one of the greatest of communication tools we have that can be beautiful and inspiring but is also a vital part of the fight for social and ecological equity. My favourite quote comes from Ali Hewson (aka Mrs Bono), ‘We carry the story of the people who make our clothes around with us.’ For example, if the industry was to source cotton from ‘fair’ sources there would be potential to lift 10 million African families, dependent on cotton farming, out of poverty.

     Gary Oldman and Kenneth Branagh

    Kenneth Branagh and Gary Oldman

    Jennifer and Kelly Meyer

    Cameron Diaz

    Colin and Livia Firth with Emily Blunt and John Krasinski 

    We had evidently invited thirty of LA's most passionate talkers. Well into the night we discussed plans and ideas as to how to make social and environmental justice a reality. I expect to bump into some of our guests on the GCC pathway and perhaps some Oxfam trips in the future. Onwards and upwards!

    We raised a glass in tribute to Marie Colvin, award winning foreign correspondent for the Sunday Times, killed that day in Syria. Marie was a much admired friend of Oxfam and The Circle, a passionate and courageous journalist who heroically reported the plight of women and children in wartime and made the world listen.

    Words cannot express how much she will be missed.

  • 15
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    Celebrities join Livia to make it the best GCC yet!

    This is a historic night for the GCC. Joining me walking the sustainable fashion walk at tonight's BAFTAs are the wonderful Viola Davis, Michael Fassbender and someone who is no strange to this challenge: Colin Firth.

    It takes a particularly cool and forward thinking actress to come with us on the GCC. Luckily we struck gold with Viola Davis, who has also revealed herself not just as a prodigiously talented actress but as a true fashion icon during the past few weeks on the world's red carpets. We were able to pair her with one of the fashion greats for tonight's BAFTAs: Valentino. I hope you find the combination and this first ever eco Valentino gown as breathtaking as I do.

    Behind the scenes we've been unflappable and everything has gone completely to plan. This is a downright fib. On a scale of calm to blind panic, we were somewhere near the latter when the fabric for Viola's dress got stuck in an epic snowstorm on the way to Turin. If it weren't for the valliant attempts of my dear friend Giorgio taking the fabric from Milan to Rome on the train, I think Viola would be wearing actual soda cans rather than the miraculously recycled ones.

    CLICK HERE FOR LIVIA'S ARMANI GOLDEN GLOBES GOWN EXCLUSIVE!

    And tonight's important for anyone that worries that menswear gets left out of these debates. Let's hear it for the boys! Michael Fassbender and Colin both wear tuxedos by Giorgio Armani made from ethical wool with accents from recycled fabric, made to our own GCC specifications. This is the second part of a very rewarding collaboration with Giorgio Armani.

    Continuing a theme, I am also in a tuxedo tonight as I swap my old Hollywood look for a sleek, sophisticated (provided I carry it off!) boyish one. The hard work has of course already been done by the genius of UK design,Sir Paul Smith. He is one of my heroes and I am thrilled that he's taken up the GCC for the BAFTAs. Contrary to what I would've thought, the tux makes me feel incredibly feminine, and quite naughty (I know, I know - too much information!)

    CLICK HERE FOR THE EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH SIR PAUL SMITH. 

    Anyway, working with Paul Smith and his team of highly skilled, passionate people was like a dream come true. His ethos, supply chain knowledge and commitment to real fashion skills are totally inspiring. Paul, if you're ever in need of an Italian intern with some sewing skills and her own sustainable dress suit, you know where I am!

  • The GCC hits Paris Couture week!

    The GCC this year is not just about turning red carpets a bit greener, but opening doors for and to the fashion industry. I'll confess I'm something of a fashion week ingénu. Previously, I've only ever attended Estethica at London Fashion Week watching emerging ethical designers. I thought that was exciting enough, but now it's time for me to become a special green envoy to the Paris Haute Couture shows.

    I am under the wing of my friend the brilliant Franca Sozzani (editor of Vogue Italia). Franca is also the ambassador for Fashion 4 Development, which the GCC supports, as well as Oxfam.

    My first question was "how do I pack for this?" I'm treating it like a very long green carpet, which just happens to last a couple of days. My travel outfit is Fifties with a bit of punk twist - Henrietta Ludgate jacket, recycled leather full skirt with studs on the waistband, Prada ballet flats and an old black T-shirt which I bought 10 years ago in LA.

    Franca Sozzani, Livia Firth, Albar Elbaz

    Franca Sozzani, Alber Elbaz and me

    On arrival I meet with Franca Sozzani and Alber Elbaz, Lanvin's creative director. I had underestimated how full-on this time of year is for the fashion community. "Between August and Christmas last year I had two days off," Elbaz tells me, "I desperately need a holiday because this is when I am at my most creative. When you stop and get bored, this is when all the best ideas arrive." No chance. As Alber hurries off, the Roger Vivier gang arrive. Regular GCC followers will know Bruno Frissoni, creative director of RV has been a stalwart GCC supporter, regularly fishing out old bits of material to upcycle into an amazing pair of shoes.

    Bruno Frissoni and Livia Firth

    Me and Bruno Frissoni,

    Armani seamstress finishing off some last minute adjustments in the Hôtel de Crillon bathroom the day before the Armani Prive Show. 

    Livia Firth in Eva Zingoni

    For the evening events (a quick change - in fact everything here involves speedy turnarounds) tonight I've gone for Eva Zingoni. This is upcycling at its most glamorous. I've gone for black trousers with tiny embroidered roses on them, and a chiffon shirt with matching embroidery. My skull necklace in recycled bronze (available on Eco-Age.com from 27 Feb!) tops off the look.

    Franca Sozzani and Lady Amanda Harlech

    Franca Sozzani and Lady Amanda Harlech, chatting outside Largerfeld's studio. 

    Karl Lagerfeld

    Karl Largerfeld picking the accessories for the Chanel show the next day. 

    Livia Firth, Karl Lagerfeld, Franca Sozzani

    Karl Lagerfeld discussing accessories with Franca Sozzani  and Me!

    And it's off to Chanel. I cannot wait to meet Karl Lagerfeld, but really the night before his show, how stressed will he be? Is he really going to want to chat about the finer points of the Green Carpet Challenge? Could this be a more iconic view? Ines de La Fressage is there taking pictures, while Amanda Harlech supervises the models. The clothes are the most stunning I have ever seen. And there is Mr Karl Lagerfeld."'I'm so sorry Mr Lagerfeld," I say in a very small voice, "this is such a busy time for you. I can't imagine what it's like for someone to turn up at such a stressful moment." He takes off those very famous glasses, looks me in the eye and says "Stressed? I love this! There's no stress at all!"

    The preparations going on behind me as I talked to Karl. The final run through and make up check!

    If it is, I rather like it. I drag myself away from the divine Mr Lagerfeld and return to the hotel room I'm sharing with Warly Tomei, our GCC fashion fixer and my great friend. It already resembles a teenage bedroom - a sprawling pile of clothes, shoes and general mess: how do fashion editors keep everything tidy?

    Time for the Chanel show. To my huge surprise, I find myself at the entrance of an aeroplane. I'm about to embark on a flight to Planet Fashion. With characteristic aplomb, Lagerfeld has set his show in a mocked up jet. There are seats, flight attendants complete with trolley and the ambiance of a plane ride when that was still a lovely experience (think Pan Am in its heyday rather than a budget carrier).

    The music begins and the most fabulous looking models appear in stunning clothes. From the beads, to the embroidery to the materials - everything is blue. It is beautiful.

    One of my favourites from the wonderful Roger Vivier collection. 

    Then it's on to the Roger Vivier headquarters for Bruno Frisoni's collection preview lunch. I chat so much to Bruno that I almost forget to go to the Armani show. In a kind-of homage to Superman and his phone box transformations, I use Ines de La Fressage's beautiful pink office to change into my new Giorgio Armani cocktail dress (made from the same NewLife, recycled plastic bottle fabric he used for the GCC Golden Globes). And now I am running in heels, like a proper fashion week person.

    Roberta Armani greets me with a huge smile and hug. Sitting near Jessica Chastain and Cameon Diaz we all begin chatting. Jessica's phone rings. It is her agent in LA. "Congratulations you are nominated for an Oscar," he tells her. Jessica's mouth is open, here eyes are wide with surprise, her life is changed for ever. She drops the phone into her lap. We all cheer and clap, camera flashes go off all around.

    Franca Sozzani and I front row, excitedly waiting for the show to begin!

    What an amazing moment. Then the lights go off, the music starts and here we go at Armani. The colours are green and black. From the magic of Chanel, the uber sexy Armani woman is in the house!

    Giorgio Armani and I, after his amazing show!

    After Armani, it's off to meet Stefano Tisci at Givenchy in Palace Vendome. I bump into the gorgeous Cameron Diaz again, wandering through the exhibition Tisci has created to showcase his pieces. This is high brow fashion, so rarefied I consider taking my shoes off so I can tip toe around, but in person Stefano has a huge warm smile. He cannot believe the dress I'm wearing is made from recycled plastic bottles (in a good way!).

    Cinderella eat your heart out! Giambattista's finale piece!

    Next Giambattista Valli at his office. I'm lost in my own Cinderella fantasy. What a dream his collection is and as for his enthusiasm, well I'm beginning to feel that we can all change the world! That's one thing I really notice: all the designers are curious, warm and very interested in learning about the GCC and new materials and how we can work together. Now I understand why the world of fashion is one of the most intoxicating places you can be.

    Giambattista Valli with one of his gorgeous dresses!

    I wake up actually wondering if I can make it through the day. The shows are not a sprint, they are a marathon and I'm starting to realise you need phenomenal endurance (it's all compounded by the heels!). I see the Autumn/Winter previews of two of my favourite eco brands: Eva Zingoni and Kami Organics.

    Then off to meet Stefano Pilati to discuss YSL and the Green Carpet Challenge. Again, he is so kind and supportive and very clued up about traceability issues. He updates me about the fascinating project he has worked on in Burkina Faso with a women's cooperative creating bags.

    And now for the last of my Haute Couture shows: Valentino at Hotel Salomon, the old de Rothschild mansion. The backdrop confirms the stature and beauty of the clothes we are about to see.

    Last autumn I visited Valentino House in Rome and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccili aetelier. I found the rooms full of these women in their white coats - some old, some young, as skills were passed from generation to generation truly inspiring. To come face to face with their work, these beautiful gowns you see why it takes weeks and months to make Valentino Couture. The pieces in front of me are pure masterpieces.

    One of the great things about being in this environment is that you get to see all your fashion heroes (and heroines). Fashion journalist Sarah Mower is sitting next to me. She was described somewhere as providing commentary "so sharp she could shred leather". Well, she certainly cut the whole "It Bag" phenomenon down to size in a fantastic piece she wrote. She gets to the heart of consumerism and waste without once mentioning eco or green, ushering in a new fashion ethos which is what we're all about here!

    Franca Sozzani, Hamish Bowles, Grace Coddington and Suzy Menkes scribbling down their notes,

    Indeed, all the big fashion editors and journalists were in attendace from Franca Sozzani, Hamish Bowles, Grace Coddington and Suzy Menkes. All looking serious and scribbling furiously into their notebooks. What struck me is the level of scrutiny at these events. The pressure for the designers must be immense. This reinforces the courage of those doing something very different and in addition to their own aesthetic, taking on the Green Carpet Challenge!

    A last run - this time to catch the final Eurostar of the day.

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